So I’ve fallen in love with a wave.

Of course this is platonic and really only an admission of perhaps my affection for it but I find myself thinking about it more and more, everyday in fact.

Constantly reminiscing of my last session. The good waves, the drops, the turns, the over the handle bars, the drillings, the current, the crowds ooooh just magic.

When will I next get to enjoy these sensations? (Well lucky enough there is a ream of information available to help me plan my next surf there (see blog xyz) 😊.)

The wave is a well known & documented (to some extent) left point break in the South West of the UK but actually has a few extra tricks up its sleeves that are less well known.

This love affair started in the mid 90’s whilst I was living in Bristol (spoiler I’m not a local in true terms in that I live at the spot) and with my interest in technology through work, using wave buoy data as an indication if the combination of enough swell and period in the water was enough to warrant a day trip I think opened the door for it to become a regular thing.

Within a few years an option to move within 50 minutes of  this spot came up and I didn’t even blink, finding myself 30 years later tracking every swell and I’d like to think getting into most of them.

I’d like to think myself as a regular in that I’m there a lot (every week during main swell season), know a fair few other regulars, the 4 actual locals & perhaps the visitors from down the coast & across the Bristol channel that pull in from time to time.

Maybe one day I might actually live there but perhaps that will ruin everything, the motivation to go for a surf when the conditions are not perfect, or top me going at all as I see with lots of friends that have moved directly in front of a spot, they seem to find reasons not to go in because its not perfect but lets face it, that would mean very little surfing done ever in this country 😊😊.