To the left or the west of the river, next to the carpark along the bluff, the first point at Lynmouth presents itself.

Usually bigger than the next point ‘Blackland’s’ to the east of the river, this is fast down the line wall that races towards the poles at the river mouth some 200m+ away, that will give you some different moods dependent on the swell.

3 take off points each providing slightly different versions, at the top of the point a more bowly take off and line and zip along the inside bringing you midway on the point.

The Middle peak usually offers the main juice a good bottom turn into a high line gets you motoring into the first whack able section and if you’ve not gone too hard and wiped too much speed off you can drive further down the line to the next section that begs to be hit before either the wave ploughs towards the poles or lets you into one final floater or re-entry right near the river mouth.

It might seem quite distance to travel for two sections but it’s the speed element that is captivating and keeps me returning at any sniff of action.

On the largest swells, the peak can move even wider and further out and whilst the pace of the wall is more lumbering, it can give you a nice roll into a long drop that entices you to a drawn-out bottom turn and a more carvable wall before it shuts down as it pushes towards the river mouth.

Best around low tide on the push before it goes a bit too straight around mid-tides and on the super big spring low tides, the kelp beds get exposed along with some rather large boulders that add an extra dimension of spice to get tangled in.

Standard shortboards usually the preferred vehicle of choice of varying lengths.  I usually ride an everyday shortboard in the 6’0 length up to head high and then look to a rounded pin step up 6’2” to provide more hold but you’ll find a plethora of board preferences will be on display by the fellow acolytes.